Riding big waves is my passion. I spend my whole life chasing the thrill of riding these waves and the adventure that goes with it.
To me it’s more than just going for a surf. It’s about the adventure that’s involved along the way. This has included such things as flying to the other side of the world for a two day massive swell, or driving thousands of kilometres to find a wave that I’ve heard whispers of and hoping it’s going to be good. It’s about the good times with friends along the way and meeting new friends. However, the end goal is always the same: to get the opportunity to ride some giant monsters and catch the wave that will change your life.
I started surfing when I was about 10 years old and fell in love with the sport. Each morning, regardless of weather, I would get up early and ride my bike down to the beach to surf before school and headed back down afterschool. I competed at a state level and national level in my early teens for a few years.
The thrill of big waves was soon to come and I’d never look back. To be honest I used to be terrified of the big waves, some days I wouldn’t even go out the back, or I would stay on the inside and surf the small reforms. I slowly got over my fear and when I was 15 I caught my first ever big wave.
I was in Margaret River and there was a big swell, the main break was around 12 ft. I wanted to go and challenge myself. I borrowed a board from a friend and hit the water. I remember sitting out the back, my heart was pounding and the adrenalin pumping. I also remember doubting myself and thinking I was out of my league and considering what I was doing out here. At that moment a set rolled through and I was in the perfect spot. I knew this was my chance so without hesitating I put my head down and paddled as hard as I could.
It was a late drop but I made it. I started bottom turning and then I could hear a giant roar behind me and boom, the force of the heavy wave hit me and I got absolutely pounded. This was the most exciting and exhilarating thing I’d ever done and I was hooked.
From that moment on all I wanted to do was ride a bigger and crazier wave and have dedicated my life to chasing down the biggest waves. From slabs here at home in West Oz to surfing Nazere in Portugal, which currently claims the world record for the biggest wave.
Whether I’m surfing 20ft Mavericks of a 2ft beach break I’m at home amongst the waves. And now I’m waiting for the next adventure to sweep me up.